| Season AS2 | Episode 9 | Aired on 12.27.2012
This week, the designers meet at Elie Tahari's offices. He and Carolyn tell them that they will be designing ready-to-wear looks to be sold at their stores and on their website. The proceeds will go to the Save the Garment Center charity. Apparently, Mondo's design that won this challenge last year made a bunch of money for them. They have to be conscious of price point, as these dresses will be selling for the bargain price of 400 to 700 dollars. They pick their fabrics from a giant archive of fabrics at the office.
Ivy picks this really dramatic print, which is different for her. Anthony Ryan also chooses a dramatic print. Uli chooses a white fabric, which she recognizes as a mistake as soon as they get back to the work room. She's worried that it will not pop on the runway, so she tries to get creative with her design. She admits that she's having a hard time.
Joanna and Elie are both consultants this week. Elie thinks that Ivy's dress should be shorter. He tells Josh that his combo of fuchsia and lace might be a little too much. They think that Emilio's color combination of gold and orange may be too much. They tell Uli that she shouldn't be afraid of her white dress. Elie tells Anthony Ryan that you appreciate things more when you have to fight for it. It moved Joanna and she actually hugs him! She even says that she is never moved. Before he leaves, he tells everyone to act with love and not fear. He's fantastic.
Anthony Ryan's boyfriend, Matthew, skipped Beer Thursday at work so that he could video chat with Anthony Ryan. He's also adorable. Ivy chats with Casanova and it's very sweet. She cries and tells him that she's feeling discouraged. He tells her that she's a fighter and she bucks up a little.
Later, we hear that Elie Tahari was homeless when he first came to the US. Along with Georgina and Isaac the guest judges are Elie Tahari and model/actress Stacy Keibler. I am a definite "whatever" with her. Anthony Ryan's dress seems fine. Josh's is a little over the top. I think Emilio's is really pretty. I think Ivy's dress is gorgeous. Uli's is pretty too, though maybe a little simple.
Uli gets raves. Ivy gets in trouble for the length of her dress. Isaac loves it, but thinks it looks awkward standing still. They are disappointed in Emilio, because they expected to see more from him. Isaac loves what Anthony Ryan did with his print. Josh can't really win, though he gets praise for his fabric choice. Carolyn and he kind of get into it regarding his zipper in the back. She says that it cheapens the dress.
Anthony Ryan wins the challenge! Uli is in. Emilio is safe. That means it's Josh and Ivy. Ivy is...out. Oh well. I think she was sent home because she has been in the bottom so many times, because Josh's was definitely the worse dress.
Previously: The designers had to make designs inspired by the 1920's, plus they were paired into little duels. Laura Kathleen got shuffled off to Buffalo. That's not even the right period, I don't think. Whatever. Anthony Ryan won the challenge, because he can't stop winning.
So, has Mondo made any revolutionary statements as guest editor at Marie Claire? I haven't heard anything. I'm wondering how hands-on the guest editors are asked/required to be. On the outside, it looks like an opportunity that one would be crazy not to take full advantage of, but I don't know. The prizes on this show must have some big hidden stipulations, because they sound so huge but it's obvious that the fame is more valuable to people in the end. I want to hear that someone is running like a multi-national fashion megabus off their HP/Intel workshop or whatever in their tiny Cleveland cottage. But, no. Instead, you hear that they were at a party with Adam Lambert and a Kardashian. I refuse to see if I spelled Kardashian correctly or even the same way twice. I just feel like it would do a lot for the brand of the show and the seriousness of their purpose if you saw a winner super utilize the prizes in a way that made them a more successful fashion designer.
We begin with the designers trudging down Fifth Avenue in Manhattan, looking like a bunch of street urchins. I'm so glad that Laura Kathleen is gone for this, because I love that they all look like they just popped out of a gay production of Oliver (redundant?). She would have contaminated the mis en scene. Anthony Ryan interviews that he has never been here. There's a Bentley. Stores. We're supposed to get that this is real fancy. Josh explains, because of course it's Josh explaining, that Fifth Avenue is the home of some swank fashion houses. It's the home base to many high-end fashion retailers. They arrive at Elie Tahari's offices and there's the Project Runway logo. So, they know they're in the right place.
Uli tells us that Elie Tahari is currently one of the powerhouses in fashion. Apparently, his design studio takes up like an entire building. Damn. Uli is amazed at how clean and bright the space is. It's amazing what some Mr. Clean and light bulbs can do.
Carolyn is waiting for the designers inside of the building. She explains that a true all-star designer needs to be able to design ready-to-wear clothing. Then, she introduces Elie Tahari. He welcomes them and says that they will be creating ready-to-wear looks for a modern, feminine and sophisticated lady. Carolyn says that they have to consider the manufacturing price of their garments, so that when sold at a retail price of $500-700, a profit is made. That seems expensive. Elie explains that the winning garment will be sold in Elie Tahari stores and online. The proceeds from the sale of the garment will go to Save The Garment Center. Carolyn says that the design that Mondo created for the similar challenge last season raised HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS for the charity. Wow. Everything seems huge right now. Elie will be on hand to make sure that the designers choose the correct fabric and design for the retail target. They have an entire fabric floor and the designers can choose anything they want! The designers are appropriately stoked.
| Season AS2 | Episode 9 | Aired on 12.27.2012
They are offered some HB tablets and Elie Tahari dossiers and sent on their way to do some sketching. Uli and Ivy are sitting in a beautiful corner office and Uli says, "This is the way it's going to be one day, right?" I think the idea seems so pie in the sky right now that Ivy only giggles. Ivy interviews that she felt like she was in fashion heaven. Uli is staying away from the feathers and trim for this challenge. Ivy says that she's going to make a cute short dress with color blocking, because Elie Tahari is famous for a lot of color blocking. She feels confident, because she is a ready-to-wear designer. Emilio says that ready-to-wear is your bread and butter as a designer.
On the fabric floor, Anthony Ryan finds a really dramatic print, but he's worried about it making his model look bigger than she should. Emilio says that fabric selection is key in ready-to-wear because every penny counts. He decides to go with a mustard fabric and says that his client is always looking for color from him. Joshua chooses a magenta. It's true that he and Emilio essentially design for the same person.
After they have chosen their prints, they go to this place where they are offered price consultations, so they can know how much it would cost to manufacture their dress. Emilio is right on target. It sounds like the lady consulting Ivy tells her that she should use the whole print instead of making it a short dress. Uli had considered making a vest and a dress, but she is told that the vest might take them beyond their price point. She decides to drop the vest idea. I can't tell if Anthony Ryan chose his print or not. Joshua is using a magenta lace in addition to his magenta fabric. Hmm.
Back at the workroom, Ivy finalizes her decision to use the whole print and make a maxi dress. And, yes, Anthony Ryan is using the print that he found. He is excited about showing the judges what he can do with prints. Uli has a moment of, I don't know, doubt? Realization can't be the word. Anyway, she notices that she got a white fabric. She wonders why she did that. I say that it can't be a realization because white is her primary palette. She didn't just realize that. That would be weird. She jokes that she wasn't thinking clearly when she chose it. In an interview, she says that she loves the fabric that she chose (which has a texture that is much more interesting that just being white) but thinks that color would be a smarter choice for the runway. Emilio thinks that she has made a big mistake because color excites people.
| Season AS2 | Episode 9 | Aired on 12.27.2012
Everybody is deep in their work. Uli is worried about her choice of white. She says that, because her dress is white and everyone else's has color, her dress won't pop on the runway. I'm not sure that's true. Her dress just being different from everyone else's might be enough to make it pop. She feels that she has to have some really interesting design elements to make up for her dress having no color. She says that she's having trouble. She's showing Anthony Ryan her draping up to this point and it's looking kind of shapeless. Anthony Ryan says that it will be interesting to see what she comes up with, though he clarifies for us that what he's really trying to say is that he thinks she's going to crash and burn. I'm glad we know the truth.
Ivy tells Josh that she likes where he is going with his dress and the lace. It looks like she really means it too. She interviews that editing is Josh's real problem, so we won't really know how things are going for him until the end. While sewing, Josh giggles to himself that there sure is a lot of pink in his look. Emilio replies that he's all about color. He doesn't care what you do as long as it's in color. Hmm. Sounds like someone's trying to drive a Uli-is-the-wrong-one-here narrative where it's a cardinal sin to use white. I wonder if he thinks that by planting this color is God theme in his speech, it will somehow manifest itself on the runway. Or, if he's just polishing up his argument for the judges.
Joanna and Elie arrive for consultations. Joanna reminds everyone that the proceeds of this victory will go to charity. They start with Ivy. She says that she initially thought that her fabric was an hombre charmeuse, but realized that it was a print once it was off the shelf. Joanna wonders if it is right for ready-to-wear and Elie says that it is a bold choice. He suggests that maybe her design would be better served with a shorter dress and she says that she really loves the print and wanted to use the whole thing. Then, she says that the customer could decide on the hem and have it tailored herself. Joanna does not like that idea. She doesn't think the customer should be burdened with that.
Josh's dress is missing the entire bust area. It almost looks like it's on purpose. Elie asks what is supposed to happen in that area and Joanna thanks him for being the one to ask. You realize what that means, don't you? It means that Josh's taste level has been so all over the place that Joanna didn't feel confident in assuming that the model's breasts would be covered. You really got to do some soul searching when you realize that you have driven people to that place. Or, on the other hand, it could be amazing for people to think you are crazy. It's probably easier to impress them that way. Elie asks Josh to consider how comfortable his client will be. Will she be comfortable wearing a fuchsia dress? Hey, also, guess what? In the 700 seasons of writing about this show, I've never spelled "fuchsia" correctly on the first pass. Elie thinks there is a lot going on and that the lace takes it to "another place." Anthony Ryan who has got something a little shitty to say about just about EVERYBODY these days, says that pink and lace remind him of the Playboy Mansion. He says that if Elie says the dress is too much, you should tone it down. Well, I guess that last part just makes sense.
| Season AS2 | Episode 9 | Aired on 12.27.2012
Emilio explains that he wanted to make a color-blocked dress that was simple in the back. Joanna thinks that, while interesting, the color combination is hard for a lot of women to pull off. Elie agrees and says that simpler combinations of colors are better. Emilio takes from that that maybe he should make the whole dress like the back of his dress.
Joanna does an Uma/Oprah thing with Elie and Uli and it gets all of the laughs that you can imagine it would. Both Elie and Joanna are worried about how heavy the fabric appears at the waist of her current look. I think maybe she just needs to tailor it because the fabric is too thick for the sort of draping that she does. She explains that her fear is that her look is too simple. Elie points out that she started going wrong when she listened to her fear.
Anthony Ryan explains his look as something that anyone could wear. Joanna says that the print is doing a lot of work for him. Anthony Ryan adds that he wants to create pockets for the dress. Joanna wonders if that makes it more expensive to produce. Elie says that it is marginally more expensive to produce with pockets but the value add created is much more important. Elie thinks that Anthony Ryan biggest challenge will be to manipulate the print to make the most flattering silhouette. Then, Elie offers the chestnut that when things are easy, we get lazy. When things are challenging, we appreciate them more. That sounds simple, but he relays it in a gentle way, which suggests that he has a lot of experience with challenges. Joanna, get this, hugs him and attests to be moved, maybe for the very first time. Not wanting to feel alone, she points out that Anthony Ryan is touched too. THEY'RE ALL TOUCHED. It's not just you, Joanna. Don't worry, you're not having a feeling that can't be matched up to other feelings. You're normal. It's fine. Anthony Ryan says that Elie Tahari is a force in fashion and seeing him be small and humble was really cool to him.
Later, in the sewing room, Ivy asks Uli how her consultation went. Her take-away was that Elie preferred a simpler look. Uli decided to remove a piece of draping that was in the front of her dress and already prefers the results. Emilio wisely decides to take whatever advice Elie has to offer. He's removing part of his color-blocking and sticking with what Elie likes.
With three hours remaining in the work day, Anthony Ryan gets a chance to video chat with his boyfriend, Matthew Day. Matthew Day is legit adorable. And, he has perfectly reasonable hair. Anyway, Anthony Ryan is psyched to talk to him and tell him how things have been going. He says that it's more fun this time around, while also more difficult since it's All-Stars and all of that. Anthony Ryan asks him if he was as excited to talk to him as vice versa (you can't trust anything squeezed that inorganically out of people but that's just me) and Matthew Day says that it was Beer Thursday at his work and he skipped it to talk to Anthony Ryan. Well, never mind. There's nothing you can trust more than the reasons someone skipped Beer Thursday and I'm not even kidding not even a little bit. They trade "love you's" and that's that.
| Season AS2 | Episode 9 | Aired on 12.27.2012
Ivy is and she gets to video chat with Casanova! Yay! I have to say, there was something really lovely and hard-earned about their friendship that I really respected. It felt like maybe they came off of their season with some bruised egos and were reminded by each other why they do this. I obviously don't know if that is entirely true, but they exhibit the signs of people who have witnessed true vulnerability in the other. There's only so much bullshit that can pass between people once they've been witness to some of the real lows. She tells him that his head looks huge on the monitor and they both giggle about that. She interviews that talking to him helped to lighten her mood. She tells him, while starting to cry, that his departure and being on the bottom so many times has made her feel really discouraged. He tells her that she is not a loser and she needs to fight. She interviews that she plans on not giving up. They say good-bye and it's back to work.
The models come in for their fittings. Uli manages to find some dynamic shoes for her look. Emilio tells his girl that he's finally understanding her body. Anthony Ryan has a few adjustments to make, but he's happy with the look. Ivy decides to leave her dress long, in the name of staying true to her vision. Famous last words and all of that. Uli has a lot of work to do on her dress. She says that it has to be taken in from several sides. Emilio says that it looks like a potato sack. He manages to be a little more magnanimous with Josh and notes that it looks great from the front, problematic in profile and a hot mess from the back. At least he gave him credit for the front, right? With the models gone, they have fifteen minutes to work. Then, the day is over.
At the hotel, Emilio says that he made changes to his dress based on what Elie said. Josh didn't know his background, so Emilio relays how Elie came to the US from Israel without anything and was sleeping in Central Park when he first got here. They all find it very inspiring and decide to always be gracious.
The day, they all get back to work. They have 2 hours before the show. All of them still have a fair amount of work to complete. They send the girls to hair and makeup and hot makeup daddy, Scott Patric, absorbs all of their needs and worries and makes the world pretty and glossy. Ivy feels that Emilio's dress is too dated, while he thinks that Ivy made a huge error not following Elie's advice and making her dress shorter. Uli loves what Anthony Ryan has done and really wishes she had chosen a print, while Anthony Ryan thinks that Uli's obsession with white means that she is begging the world to get married. Josh has this exposed zipper on the back of his dress that is causing lots of problems. With his usual flair for the elegant, Josh says that the puckering on the zipper makes it appear as though the model has a dump in her butt.
| Season AS2 | Episode 9 | Aired on 12.27.2012
Carolyn greets the designers on the runway. She says that this challenge combines business and fashion. Once more, we are reminded that the proceeds from the sale of the winning design will go to charity. She introduces Georgina, Isaac, Elie Tahari and extra guest judge Stacy Keibler, who Carolyn says has the longest legs in the business. Sometimes, it's like my mind does myself a solid and completely blocks out certain people from my consciousness. It's not even that I'm aware of them and just don't dig deeper. It's like they actually don't exist. I feel like that is what has happened with this Stacy Keibler person and I could not be more grateful. Did she date George Clooney? Whatever.
The show begins with Anthony Ryan's dress. He has made a simple little dress from a really great print. It's a vertical asymmetrically striped print of blacks and silvers and grays. He has put black panels on the side to control the silhouette. It's very slimming. At the shoulders, he has this neat little cap sleeve that works almost like a plank. Plus, there are pockets. It's all very modern and pretty.
Here is Josh's dress and, yes, it is very pink. From the front, it looks like a nondescript sleeveless number. There's a little bit of pleating at the waist that creates this shapeless wasteland for the bosom of the poor model. It's like, those boobs want to be given rules. Then, there's the back. There are cut-outs around the shoulder blades, all to emphasize this gross exposed zipper that he's so hot for. He tries really hard to convince us that he likes this dress, but I'm not buying it. He says that he likes the way it looks and his model is hot. Ringing endorsement.
Emilio's dress is . It's a mustard yellow dress with burgundy trim. I actually really like the color combo, though I'm not a fan of mustard by its lonesome. Too many memories of The Limited in the 1990s. He thinks that it feels modern, sophisticated and expensive. The silhouette is pretty amazing, because this manages to look flattering and relaxed at the same time.
Ivy's dress is a problem. The neckline is really demure and cute. It's this print of gold and indigo and some silver and black as well. It's belted at the waist, then falls to like tea length. It's too long. And, there's a half-assed slit on the sides and it just looks sort of sloppy. Oh Ivy. This is not a horrible dress, but she would have been in the top if she had just followed Elie's advice. It's like she wanted to be bold at the beginning, but then was clinging to some weird safe notion after she chose her fabric.
| Season AS2 | Episode 9 | Aired on 12.27.2012
Uli's dress is last and I love it. It's this simple white dress. Beautiful tailoring. At the shoulder, there's this sort of shawl/bow draping that is so cute without being cumbersome. I think this dress is awesome. Like, I could see a lady in her 30's who just, you know, wears a lot of dresses wanting this. Also, I could see women who don't wear a lot of dresses but need something for a special occasion digging this. Like, I could see some tattoo covered chick from Bushwick wearing this to meet her boyfriend's parents. I feel this point in my head so much more clearly than I'm making it with my words. One more pass: it's a dress that can be appreciated by people whose wardrobes are similar to this and much different from this? I tried. Uli thinks that she has presented something different to the judges and is happy with the outcome.
All of the models return to the stage. Uli begins and says that she was drawn to her fabric. Georgina likes the shawl action because she feels like it draws attention to the model's face, which she thinks is always a nice thing. Depends on the face, I suppose. She thinks that the length is neither here nor there. Isaac says that he likes the length though. I suppose now is just as good as any time to say that I've really appreciated Isaac's critique this year. I don't necessarily always stand with him at the end, but I do appreciate that he is always trying to look at things with honesty. He doesn't get locked into a way of thinking just because it was the first way he may have looked at a particular garment. He says that he likes the hem in the way that you do when you find a vintage dress that seems a little wrong, but that's what turns you on about it. I feel like he's speaking to the deepest anthropological responses that we have to fashion when he says that. Maybe I'm getting carried away? I just really appreciate that level of discourse that is confident enough in its meaning that it can veer from pure straight unwavering rhetoric. It can take a step back and go forward with more clarity. Carolyn says that she loves all of Uli's dresses. Stacy says that she would absolutely wear Uli's dress. She thinks that she nailed the challenge and that it's very classy. Let's just find a new word for when we want to say something is classy. It just doesn't sound classy are evoke something classy when you hear someone say that something is classy. Elie thinks that she used the fringe on the fabric in a correct and modern way.
| Season AS2 | Episode 9 | Aired on 12.27.2012
Ivy explains that she was inspired by her print and didn't want to overpower it with her design. Carolyn thinks that the color-blocking is great, but she doesn't like anything else about the dress. She thinks that the slits on the side make the dress billow more than it should. She's absolutely right about that. So, it appears that Ivy did shorten the dress somewhat. It was longer originally. Georgina thinks that its current length is kind f frumpy. Elie thinks that the length makes the dress too heavy, but he thinks it looks better than when he saw it earlier. Stacy thinks it would be a cute summer dress if only it had been cut shorter. Isaac says that he really likes the dress. He loved watching it walk down the runway, but feels that it's awkward watching it stand still. Imagine if you just had to keep moving all of the time so your dress looked OK. It's like you're a shark or something.
Georgina thinks Emilio chose a really hard color for his dress. She thinks that this color can easily drain the color out of a woman. She thinks that there are too few ideas on the dress. Stacy doesn't think it's a color that she would wear, but she thinks that it looks really pretty on the model. Elie likes the neckline and the sleeve. Isaac says that, while he thinks that the dress is nice, he expects more from an "all-star" like Emilio.
Anthony Ryan is presenting his dress and Isaac says that he really loves the print panels on the skirt of the dress. He thinks those panels make the dress great. He doesn't love the neckline because he feels that he has seen it a lot in other places. Elie commends him for doing so much with a challenging fabric. Stacy loves it and wants to wear it pronto.
Georgina loves the color that Josh chose, but she slams him for making it appear as though his model has drooping breasts. Yeah, I'd say that's something you don't want to do. Isaac loves the fabric, but thinks that the lace applique makes the whole thing "moderate." I'm not entirely sure I know what that means. I think he's saying that it seems cheap? Elie thinks that the lace is a problem. Oh, this is fun. Carolyn points out that, you're buying a dress for $500-$700 and maybe you don't want a gaudy zipper up the back, because it cheapens it. Joshua's response? He says that $500-$700 is actually a moderate price point. So, maybe he's trying to marry Isaac's use of the word to his intention? I don't know, but to even perpetrate the idea that a fucking $600 dress isn't expensive? You've got to be joking. She's like, fine, turn around. Then, Josh cuts her off and says that it's a fit issue and the zipper can be fixed. That's actually not a bad argument, but the problem is the zipper. It's tacky. It's not just the fit. Basically, it comes down to Josh not editing again.
| Season AS2 | Episode 9 | Aired on 12.27.2012
The designers go backstage and Josh admits to making a mistake by not editing out the zipper. He says that he will be really upset if he gets eliminated for a zipper. Back onstage, they all are crazy about Uli's and Anthony Ryan's designs. Isaac thinks that they should both win. Georgina asks Elie who he thinks would sell better. Mystery. Isaac says that he will lie on the runway if they try to eliminate Emilio this week, because he wasn't the worst. So, Ivy and Josh are the bottom two. Isaac thinks it's a problem that Ivy is always on the bottom. Carolyn thinks that Ivy is boring and Josh needs to tone it down.
The designers return to the stage. The winning designer is Anthony Ryan! Damn, this dude is winning a lot. Elie says that his first fashion show 40 years earlier is right where Anthony Ryan is standing! Anthony Ryan interviews that winning scares the shit out of him because it's like the calm before the storm. Uli is safe. She goes backstage and congratulates Anthony Ryan and jokes that he needs to stop winning.
Onstage, Emilio is safe. Carolyn tells Josh that his fabric was gorgeous but he made an average dress. She tells Ivy that no one would want to take her dress off of the hanger, even if they liked it once it was on. Ivy is...out. Josh is very relieved. She stays very positive, which is cool. She interviews that she was so obsessed with winning Season 8 that it ate her alive. She goes backstage and is very upbeat. She interviews that she is really excited about what the future holds. Good luck, Ivy! I'm not the only one wants to see an Ivy & Cas line of clothing, am I?
Jeff Long is a writer/performer living in Brooklyn. He can be reached at jeff.long75@gmail.com and followed on Twitter at @jblong.